£30.00
Campagnolo bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production during the 1990s. Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 392 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£30.00
Campagnolo Mirage / Veloce bottom bracket, hailing from Italy and in production from the 1990s to the 2000s. Made from steel and weighing in at 378 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£30.00
FAG Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Switzerland and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from plastic/steel and weighing in at 275 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£45.00
Kinex B 171 bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production from the 1980s to the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 273 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 290 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 292 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£35.00
Kinex Kompact bottom bracket, hailing from Slovakia and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 303 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£35.00
Muddy Fox / Tange MFX bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 335 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£35.00
Neco B960CAL bottom bracket, hailing from Taiwan and in production during the 2000s. Made from aluminium/steel/carbon and weighing in at 246 grams - incredibly lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£45.00
Shimano 600 EX bottom bracket (or BB for short), hailing from Japan and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 298 grams - pretty lightweight for a BB at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as very good condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£30.00
Shimano BB-ES300 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 270 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£40.00
Shimano BB-ES51 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 2000s. Made from steel/plastic and weighing in at 262 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£30.00
Shimano BB-UN52 bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s (yet still new & unused after all this time!). Made from aluminium/steel and weighing in at 332 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£45.00
Specialites TA 344 bottom bracket, hailing from France and in production from the 1970s to the 1980s. Made from steel and weighing in at 293 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
£25.00
Suntour SZ bottom bracket, hailing from Japan and in production during the 1990s. Made from steel and weighing in at 357 grams. A fine choice for keeping your classic bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike.
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. For square tapers, the ISO introduced a standard for European makers in the early 90s, JIS then did the same in Asia. Before then it was not so simple, and although there is a degree of interchangeability, the best way to make sure you have the right axle is to stick to the same brand from the same era, ideally the proprietary model.
£40.00
T.D.C bottom bracket, hailing from Great Britain and in production from the 1960s to the 1970s. Made from steel/aluminium and weighing in at 295 grams - pretty lightweight for a bottom bracket at that time. A fine choice for keeping your vintage bike authentic, but also great for any other compatible bike too.
If you're taking part in L'Eroica or a similar vintage event, this is fully compliant - so rest assured, the pre-1987 police won't lock you up for having the wrong bottom bracket!
The bottom bracket's been carefully cleaned, thoroughly checked by one of our mechanics and graded as OK condition, but do take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition before you buy.OVERVIEW
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Thread Type - this must match the bottom bracket thread on your frame. The 3 common thread types on classic and vintage bikes are English (also known as British or ISO), Italian & French, and are usually (not always!) found on frames built in their respective countries. If you're replacing a bottom bracket the cups should have the thread type stamped on one of them, if not there are a couple of things to look at; bottom bracket shell width (English & French = 68 mm, Italian = 70 mm) & drive side cup thread direction (English = left, Italian & French = right). The only curveball to watch out for here, although pretty uncommon, are Swiss threads (also found on some French frames, Motobecanes being one) which will have the same shell width & thread direction as an English thread frame but the actual thread pitch will be different. If none of the above matches what you have, there are a few lesser known varieties that will require some further research.
Axle Length - your crankset dictates the axle length you need and the recommendation should be used to avoid issues with chainline. If you're replacing a bottom bracket that works perfectly then this can be matched, otherwise you'll need to check the manufacturers spec, a good resource for older bikes is Velobase.
Axle Type - you can tell which type of axle you need just by looking at the shape of the bottom bracket hole in your crankset. The square taper axle came in two variations; JIS which was produced for cranksets made in Asia and ISO for cranksets made in Europe, these taper down to a slightly smaller end than JIS axles. There are a few exceptions such as some Sugino cranksets that required an ISO axle and some older Dura-Ace cranksests which used a shorter 'low profile' variation of the JIS taper. Ofmega/Avocet also had their own variaton of the ISO taper which is not compatible with any other type.
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