£395.00
Daccordi are a bicycle company with a long history of building bikes but a relatively short one as a brand. Having started in 1937, the business only built frames bearing other companies' names. Focusing on high-end road bikes from the mid-1940s, they made frames for the likes of Viner and Bertoni into the 1980s before building their first eponymous frames in 1981. Daccordi quickly found success with sponsored race teams, and their small-batch, meticulously built frames started to become highly desirable, particularly the high-end Turbo, Mitico, and Griffe models. One of the few Italian thoroughbred constructors still building in Italy today, Daccordi have constantly innovated with titanium, aluminium, and now carbon frames.
Only available from 1991 to 1993, the Mitico was the top-of-the-range frame for the brand during this period, coupling super-light tube sets with lugless construction. Built with Columbus EL and EL OS tubing and fillet brazed, this was a very light and stiff frame made for racing. The unicrown fork was cutting-edge for the time, and in line with its status, the frames were built to order and painted in-house in whatever colourway the customer desired.
Though we suspect this Mitico frame has been refinished, it is in great condition with a bright pillar-box red paint job and contrasting white decals. The unicrown fork, internal cable routing, and quality fillet brazing mark it out as a top-end early '90s bike, built for racing. Though the frame is fairly small, it is super light at just over 2.3 kg for the frame and fork.
The frame's been carefully checked by one of our mechanics to confirm the alignment's correct and there's no damage to the threads. If there are any minor issues worth noting we will do so in the overview section below. Please take a good look at the detailed photos so you can see the cosmetic condition of the frame before you buy.OVERVIEW
SIZING
Size Guide* - XS/Small (Approx 29" Inside Leg)
Seat Tube (ctc) - 49 cm
Top Tube (ctc) - 53 cm
Head Tube - 90 mm
Chainstay Length - 40 cm
Wheelbase - 97 cm
*This is just a guide, not a guarantee the frame will fit as every rider is different. If you're unsure of your size we'd always recommend trying out a bike with similar frame dimensions first.
TECHNICAL INFO
We've been safely sending orders around the world since 2010. There's a handy shipping calculator on the shopping cart page so you can see the cost of postage as soon as you've added it to your basket. Your order will be carefully packed and sent with tracking & insurance, we despatch most orders within 2-3 days but larger items and orders placed before the weekend can take an extra day or two to process.
We accept returns, please notify us within 14 days and ensure the item arrives back with us no later than 30 days after the order was received.
We don't charge VAT, however, if buying from outside of the UK please remember that there may be import fees to pay directly to the delivery company before receiving the order. Unfortunately we can’t advise on the exact costs as it varies from country to country, so please check your national rates before purchasing.
Seat Tube (ctc) - we measure from the centre of the bottom bracket shell up to the centre line of the top tube to give a consistent measurement regardless of frame design (ctc means centre to centre).
Top Tube (ctc) - this is measured from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seat tube, along the centre of the top tube.
Chainstay Length - measured from the centre of the bottom bracket shell to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Wheelbase - measured from the centre of the front fork dropout to the centre point of the rear dropout.
Front & Rear Spacing - measured from the inside of one dropout to the other. The dropouts on steel frames can be stretched or squeezed a few mm but it's always best to avoid this if possible, aluminium or carbon frames should never be stretched.
Brake Drop - measured using wheels of the relevant size for the frame, as stated in the technical info section.
Headset Threads - although it's generally recommended to match threaded parts exactly, with headsets you can technically mix and match, unless you have French or the obscure old Raleigh threads, in which case you need to stick to that type.
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